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Stone chimney repair specialists for Maitland homes

One loose stone or a whole weathered chimney, our Maitland crew fixes what is there and backs it with a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

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  • Locally run
  • Family owned and operated
  • Same-day service available
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Points we price on a stone job in Maitland

Loose stone in Maitland traces back to something on this list, and the estimate says what.

  1. Solid stone or facing over a backing noted
  2. Drainage at the base and terminations checked
  3. Roof, landscaping and walkways protected
  4. Flue and liner work listed separately

Stone chimney repair details for Maitland homes

Code sections, the maker's directions and mortar basics for stone chimneys in Maitland.

A stone chimney is a masonry chimney

The Florida Building Code, Residential, section R1003.1, defines a masonry chimney as one built of solid masonry units, hollow masonry units grouted solid, stone or concrete. A solid stone chimney falls under the same masonry chimney rules as a brick one.

Section R1003.10 puts the floor for masonry chimney walls at 4 inches nominal. Solid stone chimneys are repaired as structure, so loose or missing units are more than a cosmetic matter, and we treat them that way in the findings.

The scratch coat under the stone

Over the lath goes a scratch coat, which one maker specifies at a minimum of half an inch up to three quarters of an inch thick, with enough pressure to fully encapsulate the lath so none is visible. The maker notes that encapsulation and thickness are key to the lath resisting corrosion.

A thin scratch coat with lath showing through is a weak point we look for when veneer fails. Rebuilt areas get a full scratch coat, scored and allowed to set as directed before stone is applied.

Why repointing mortar is softer than the stone

Preservation Brief 2 sets out that new mortar must have greater vapor permeability and be softer, measured in compressive strength, than the masonry units, and be as permeable and as soft or softer than the historic mortar.

The reasoning is practical. Joints are meant to be the part that wears and gets repointed. A mortar harder and tighter than the stone forces moisture and stress into the stone faces instead, and the stone pays for it. We choose the mix with that rule in mind.

Curing fresh joints on a stone chimney

High-lime mortars harden as they lose water and take up carbon from the air, and drying too fast can leave them chalky and weak. Preservation Brief 2 describes misting repointed areas with a fine spray for a day or two and covering walls with burlap for the first three days, with any plastic tented away from the wall.

What we do depends on the mortar and the day. We protect new joints from hard rain and strong sun and leave you short notes on what to avoid while they cure.

Looking at the chimney from the attic

Where a chimney passes through an attic that can be entered safely, the inside of the chase or the chimney face there can show stains, damp framing or light where there should be none.

We look there when access allows, since it often explains what the outside only hints at. Nothing is disturbed, and anything we find is written into the findings with the part of the chimney it points to.

Asked in Maitland about stone chimney repair

Our family-owned team in Maitland hears these stone questions on almost every visit.

Can you replace just the loose stones on my chimney?

Often, yes. When the backing and the surrounding stones are sound, we remove the loose pieces, clean them and reset them in a full bed of fresh mortar. We check why they came loose first, because a stone reset over the same problem will loosen again.

How do I know if my chimney is natural stone or veneer?

Thin stones with a flat back over a mortar bed, a metal screed at the base or a framed chase usually mean manufactured or thin veneer. Solid stone chimneys have thick units that pass through the wall. We identify yours at the free inspection.

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