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Chimney flashing repair from local pros in Princeton/Silver Star

Tell us where the stain shows. Our pros in Princeton/Silver Star climb up, find the failing layer and put the fix in writing.

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Line by line, your flashing proposal in Princeton/Silver Star

Your written scope in Princeton/Silver Star starts with these checks and shows 10% off if you book within 72 hours after the inspection.

  1. Apron flashing across the downhill face
  2. Tile to lift and reset, on tile roofs
  3. Valleys and downspouts draining toward the chimney
  4. 10% off within 72 hours after the inspection, shown in writing

Chimney flashing details that matter in Princeton/Silver Star

A closer look at the work, from our family-owned crew serving Princeton/Silver Star.

The apron along the downhill face

The apron is the flashing across the front of the chimney, the side that faces down the roof. It lies over the roofing below it and turns up the masonry, so water running off the chimney face lands on the shingles or tile instead of behind them.

Aprons usually fail at their ends, where they fold around onto the sides and meet the first step piece. A split fold, or an apron cut too short to wrap the corner, lets water under the roofing right at the bottom of the chimney. We check the fold, the laps and how the counter flashing covers the apron's upper edge.

Tile roofs have their own flashing manual

On clay and concrete tile roofs, Section R905.3.8 of the Florida Building Code, Residential, wants flashing and counterflashing wherever the roof meets a vertical surface, done to that code chapter, to the tile maker's instructions and to the FRSA/TRI Florida high wind manual for concrete and clay roof tile.

Tile flashing is shaped and layered differently from shingle work, often with pans and closures that sit under the tile itself. We follow the manual's details at the chimney junction and tell you plainly which tiles must come up, how they are reset and what happens if an old tile breaks.

Surface-mounted counter flashing and its limits

Some counter flashing is screwed flat to the chimney face with a bead of sealant along its top edge. That approach depends on the bead staying stuck fast to the masonry, which is a lot to ask of a joint that bakes in the sun and takes every storm.

It can be the right answer on certain finishes when it is installed carefully and checked now and then. On brick with sound mortar joints, setting the metal into a joint is usually the more durable choice. We explain both and recommend the one that suits your chimney face.

Why two-part flashing lets roof and chimney move

Base flashing attaches to the roof, counter flashing attaches to the chimney and the lap between them lets each move a little without tearing the seam. That arrangement is why BIA Technical Note 19B treats the two layers as separate pieces joined by an overlap.

One-piece flashing that runs from the roof straight into a mortar joint cannot flex. As the roof moves, it pulls at the joint or cracks at the bend. When that is the source of the trouble, we replace it with a two-part detail.

Flashing repair answers for Princeton/Silver Star homeowners

If your question is not here, our Princeton/Silver Star team is a phone call away.

Do you need to go into my attic?

It helps when there is access near the chimney. Water marks on the decking and framing show which face is letting water in. We always ask first and keep the visit tidy.

Can you repair the flashing on just one side?

Sometimes. If the other faces are sound and the new piece can lap correctly into the old, a one-side repair can work. When a full reflash is worth considering, we price both options in writing.

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